How to Build a Rain Garden
By Kathy LaLiberte
There's a new sort of garden in town. It's easy to install,
looks good year-round, requires almost no maintenance and has a
positive impact on the environment. No wonder rain gardens are
such a hot gardening trend!
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| This home has a perfect site for a
rain garden. The low area near the road could be
modified to collect water from the home's roof and the
street. |
A rain garden is a special type of garden, designed to collect
stormwater runoff from a roof, driveway or other impervious
surfaces. Rather than rushing off into a storm sewer or a local
waterway, the rainwater collects in a garden where it is
naturally filtered by plants and soil. Installing a rain garden
is easy. You simply dig a shallow depression in your yard and
plant it with native grasses and wildflowers.
Rain gardens can have a significant impact on the water
quality in our communities. Studies have shown that as much as
70% of the pollution in streams, rivers and lakes has been
carried there by stormwater. By taking responsibility for the
rainwater that falls on your own roof and driveway, you'll be
helping to protect our rivers, streams and lakes from stormwater
pollution. Adding a rain garden to your yard will also provide
food and shelter for wildlife, and give you a whole new garden
that's hardy, low maintenance and naturally beautiful!
How to Make a Rain Garden
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| The completed rain garden
transforms this home's front yard. The addition of a cut
in the curb allows even more stormwater to flow into the
garden. |
Your rain garden should be located at least 10 feet from the
house. A natural site is a low spot in your yard that often
collects water after a heavy rain. Ideally this area receives
full sun, but at a minimum it should receive a half day of
sunlight. There should be a natural slope (at least 1% grade)
leading from the water collection area (your roof or driveway)
down to the rain garden. Choosing a relatively level spot for
the garden will keep digging to a minimum.
Once you've identified the new garden's location, remove the
sod and dig a shallow depression approximately 6-inches deep.
Slope the sides gradually from the outside edge to the deepest
area. Use the soil that you remove to build up a slightly raised
area on the lowest side of the garden. This berm will help
contain the stormwater and allow it to percolate slowly through
the rain garden.
If your rain garden is no more than about 6-inches deep,
stormwater will usually be absorbed within a one- to seven-day
period. Because mosquitoes require seven to 10 days to lay and
hatch their eggs, this will help you avoid mosquito problems. If
you want to create an area with standing water for fish and
amphibians, you can make one part of your rain garden deeper,
perhaps as much as 18 inches in the deepest spot. Depending on
the type of soil you have (sand, clay, loam), you may need to
line that area of the garden with plastic to help retain a small
pool of water.
A typical residential rain garden is 100 to 300 square feet,
but any size rain garden is fine. Most people just size the
garden to suit their available space. You can calculate the
ideal size for a rain garden, based on the surface area of your
roof, soil type and the garden's distance from your house. (For
more detail, see the links at the end of this article.)
Your downspout or sump pump outlet should be directed toward
your rain garden depression. This can be accomplished by a
natural slope, by digging a shallow swale, or by piping the
runoff directly to the garden through a buried 4" diameter
plastic drain tile.
Time to plant! Native plants are the best choice for rain
gardens. They withstand difficult growing conditions and require
little care. When choosing the plants, consider height, bloom
time and color. Clumps of 3-7 plants of the same variety will
look better than a patchwork of singles. Be sure to mix native
ornamental grasses and sedges in with your perennial wildflowers
to ensure the garden has a strong root mass that will resist
erosion and inhibit weed growth.
New plants should be watered every other day for the first
two weeks or so. Once they are well established, your garden
should thrive without additional watering. Fertilizers will not
be necessary, and only minimal weeding will be needed after the
first summer of growth.
Most rain gardeners wait until early spring to cut back the
prior year's growth. Leaving seed heads and spent foliage in
place through the winter provides visual interest as well as
cover and food for many kinds of wildlife. Once spring comes,
burning off the dead material is the best way to knock back
weeds and stimulate new growth. If burning is not an option, mow
the dead plants or cut them back with a scythe or pruning
shears. |